![]() ![]() ![]() Creating designs that look like they were done by Lego makes them 'feel' real to me. There's a tutorial on creating torso designs here:Īs a design student and with you stating you know about Pad and Digital printing I'll assume you know that if you're creating designs to be printed by a pad printing you're better off working with vector artwork (Illustrator) as each colour will need a separate plate making for that corresponding pad.įor me the most important thing is to work with the Lego design ethic. Digital UV is mostly almost as good, but in order to print lighter colors on a dark base it has to first print a layer of white, and if the colored ink on top is misaligned even a bit with the white layer, the edges look imperfect. The higher-end option is pad printing that is what lego uses, and also some of the other customizers such as Citizen Brick. The cheaper option is digital UV printing, which allows for small print runs. ![]() If you plan to start your own company, be advised that the printers themselves are ridiculously expensive, like $30k (USD). Heads tend to be $3-$4 each, and single-sided torsos tend to be $5-$7 each, so I really only do this when decals look inadequate. The printers I've used are minifigfx,, and bricksanity. I'd start by just making some designs and printing them onto regular paper to see how they look, then try waterslide decals, and then eventually try having them printed directly onto the parts. At that resolution, you shouldn't need to do any half-toning also, some custom printers dislike color gradients for some reason so it is probably best to not blend pixel edges. At that resolution, lines consistent with official lego minifigs tend to be 3 to 6 pixels wide.
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